Nico and a few thoughts

15 seconds of fame in Halifax…As per last post, I had been trying to recruit friends to go to the Polar Bear Swim at Herring cove 2009. Unfortunately it was a massive white out blizzard the morning of the New Year. I woke up with coffee strapped me like an IV and called up the crew. Nope. Nope. Completely snowed in? You are how far? Nope. Fine. No crew. My brother in law Matt and I shoveled for 20 minutes. I got my bathrobe ready and we drove very slowly through the white out to Herring Cove. When i got there there were maybe 8 of us, and we could drink all the red bull we wanted…as we were oddly sponsored? Total maybe 20 die hards (of the usual 75+) showed up, and I …I was jumped number 2. Mom pictured above passed me the towel. The next morning I got a text from a polar bear alumni Stephanie who said I was famous.

I. am. Halifamous….boom.

life is a blog.
After following blogs of traveling friends over the past 5 years and reflecting on my own, I have noticed a few trends I will call the Blog n’ Go Curve:

1. The mass email announcement of blog, “a way to keep in touch”
2. The first message stating welcome
3. “Only a few more days, here are pictures of the Good Bye party”
4. “I made it! Internet is hard to find”
5. Big long updates with many pictures and detailed itineraries
6. “Life is interesting and exotic here, I have already made these friends”
7. Less updates, less pictures
8. “Life away is tough, I miss home, This place is weird”
9. One really big reflective update “this is a meaningful experience”
10. Less updates
11. Short recaps
12. Long time with no blogging
13. “Sorry I have been out of touch, been busy, I will be home soon”
14. “Wow its been a year since I made this, kind of forgot, I’m doing something else now, here is a funny link related to my former life”

And so it goes…

In a way it relates to the Sargents Curve or, Cultural Adaption curve. We all go through it, with new jobs, relationships and it is very obvious with traveling volunteers in a year placement. The exciting up and downs -> the honeymoon -> the straight down everything is miserable -> and the final everything isn’t so bad and I can deal with it/ or I cant deal with it so I go back immediately to what i can deal with (fight or flight/ adaption).

In my experience with wacky volunteers, the full curve will happen between 7-9 months. If you end up with only 1-2 months you leave on the end of the honeymoon, and at 4-6 months you leave possibly at the worst time when everything seems not to have worked or things just start working without any progress. So, if you want a full learning intercultural work experience 7 months + is minimum in my view. As for blogging, if you have stopped travel blogging it could mean you have adapted well enough that your traveling life doesn’t seem too superficially amazing enough that you have to tell people how different it is - which is good, but bad for your parents and their friends who want to check for updates of your life as you have forgotten to call them to tell them you are alive.

without permission, here are a few travel blogs that keep I check in on, Chris and Glens blog are updated regularly (they keep traveling or are just that interesting)

Goliath Blog

This guy has been traveling the world by foot, he started out at the bottom of South America and walked all the way up to Alaska, ACROSS the ice into Russia. The sad part has been the past 2 years, where he made it to Russia but because he did not enter at an official port  (shock!) , he had to return to Alaska and do it again. I think this put a major damper on his trip and he is now desperately seeking funding.

Chris Anderson

I met Chris while studying at the University of Otago in New Zealand. The first time I met him was the first week of binge drinking activities for new students - on my 5th night I told him I was going to take a break and he said “Geezz… and you call yourself Canadian???” He is one of the most traveled peers I know and does a fine job at updating his life online, great photographer too.

Glen Film Blog

I recently saw the short film Treevenge, somehow related to Glen Matthews (i forget how?), local up and coming haligonian filmie I suppose would be the correct title. He keeps his blog regularly updated and, dare i say, quite witty, humorous and timely (timely?). Not sure how I ran into this blog as I have never met the guy - but there will be a time when I introduce myself and give him the creepy “I mentioned your blog in my blog” speech. creep.

4 months after left Joburg, I no longer can say I just came back from Africa.
-My life , far from Zambia. Snow, rain, ice. Ups, downs, waiting. Work, relax, boredom, Work. New, friends, old friends, great people. Family. Snow, rain, ice.

This month will decide a lot of things, or I will find out news that will encourage me to make brash decisions. I will hear back from The University of Toronto where I have applied for M.ed in Adult Education and Community Development. Two unbelievable jobs will tell me thumbs down or thumbs up for an interview. Scholarship thumbs way up or inexistant. Or perhaps possibly a real full time job will appear out of thin air in Halifax - as I hear the non profit business is booming in a recession.

Need a photographer? find Jeff mccrossin - thanks for the snow tea and photo Jeff -

What else.. speaking at Dalhousie University about Development through Sport this thursday…wrote an angry article 7/10 comments disagreed with on Taking it Global here   …and I try to do something cold every cold week - ice climbing, hiking, snow shoeing, down hill skiing, cross country skiing, winter surfing…All these things are very possible in Halifax and close.

Nova Scotia at its coldest

KC and Julie whisper in the winds off Penant Point, outside of Crystal Crescent Beach

Outside of Wolfville where Acadia Unversity is found. Mud Cliffs and out of focus lends - photos from CailinOneil

Williams Lake, this has been a mighty winter for skating. The empty lake I swim near my house.

My new girlfriend. Sadie Catherine Stockwell - 18 months. My sisters child is precious. She spent 2 weeks with me at home. Everyday I would force her with tickles to say my name ” sayyyy NIIIICOOOO…say it…say NIII…COOO”…..everytime the same thing. a smile. a point. “Doh Doh!!”

Polar Bear Dip in Point Pleasant Park circa 1988?

I’m getting a bit excited. I got an email back from a guy named Rob.

Nico,

Please send in your pictures.
Yes you can advertise the site on Facebook.
We had 2 young pipers last year, they have agreed to do it again.

Hope to see you at the jump !

rob

In a few weeks I will be voluntarily throwing myself off a wharf into the frozen ocean on New Years Day, this is called the Polar Bear Dip. This will be my forth time in Halifax, and correctly my 6th consecutive “Christmas-New years day” swim  (although Mozambique 07, Zanzibar 08 swims may not fall into polar feats).

My first did not work so well. Somehow I convinced a girl interest that I would come pick her up, we would travel to Williams Lake, and go for swim. Once we got there, I realized the lake was what one might call frozen and we needed to cut through to go for the dip. This was near Christmas as I recall of 2004, but I still wanted to attend my first official jump. New years morning, “fresh” was not the word of choice, I told my parents I was going to the jump, I just didn’t know where it was or what time. In a semi conscious state, I heard my parents calling local radio stations Q104, C100 and CKDU to ask where the jump was. They didn’t know. I fell back asleep with no regrets.

The following year future polar alumni Nick Campbell was ready for the jump. We arrived at the jump spot with no one to be found. The humming organs etched through the ice cubed air, bagpipes. Nick and I were not officially locals to the Herring Cove old fishing village outside of Halifax, and we had no idea about the opening ceremonies. First- The Pre Jump Pump: Local guys shotgunnin brewskies faster than I knew possible. Second is the parade of bath robed men and small children lead by token bag piper with kilt. Oh the Maritimes. And number three-  robes off, I jumped. Actually, I did a front flip. The following day I was quoted in the local paper “Nico Koenig, first time jumper, says it’s the best way to cure a hangover”. Nick was also quoted in rival paper. As my father is an clinical therapist focusing on alcoholism, I do not remember him boasting about the review to his colleagues.

herring cove wharf, halifax
After reading the email from Rob, I passed on a message to freelance writer Holly Gordon and told her she should look into writing an article on the history and cultural significance of the event. She suggested it to her publisher, and also said I could do it myself. Well, I will try if hers does not take off. Here is a short completely unreferenced, possibly made up, and strictly googled history and origin of the polar swim.

While it may be the 15th annual polar bear dip in Herring Cove Halifax, we, the polar lineage, have been doing this kind of thing for just about as long as humans learned to jump, swim and make fire. It is of course the logical next step in our evolution. Winter swimming has been part of Scandanavian tradition for hundreds of years. It is related to the use of saunas, where by people went into cabin huddled around hot coals and chilled out. One day local Scandinavian Johann Schmoe decided to mix it up a bit by making a hole in the ice, jumping in and going back to the sauna. It is thought that having the body adjust to extreme differences in temperature has some healing effects.

Along with the healing effects, there also seems to a history of dousing with cold water related to religious tradition as a means to purify the body and soul from a year worth of sins. This can be found in Christian religions, in Russian for example as a ritual to mark the feast of the Baptism of Our Lord. While in South Africa, I was told that by a friend that “black people don’t like water” – except new years day – where thousands will go to the coast to go in the water. Of course here it is summer, and the water temperature non life threatening. I was told that the reason was that it is somehow linked to the peoples Christian belief related to cleansing.

In the mid 1800s European immigrants came to America, including my own Hungarian great great grandpolar bears. The northern European traditions of winter swimming tagged along bringing with the first winter swimming clubs in Boston and New York. Stories of the great American iced swim stretch back to 1865 in Boston at the L-Street Bathhouse,  - however it was not recognized until 40 years later where it took its first official new years day swim in the Boston Harbour in 1904. Officially the Coney Island Polar Bear club beat that date as it was founded in 1903 by “The Father of Physical Culture” Bernarr Macfadden (1868-1955). I would say he looks like me, atleast he has a similar inspirational nose.

the L-Street Bath house, south bostom, early 1900s
A previous New York polar bear president jokes that that the club was founded and then the members “sat around drinking and asking what they should do until two years later when someone said, ‘Why don’t we go for a swim?’”. This joke became a calling for future generations.

Is this how it works? A tradition starts in US and then takes in Canada? What ever the case, the first polar bear swim in Canada started by one of Vancouveres first Greek immigrants Peter Pantages. He started Vancouvers New Year’s Day Polar Bear Swim, and the Swim Club in 1920 out of the English Bay with 10 people and today entertains thousands. How and by whom it started in Halifax remains a mystery. Holly Gordon, as a real journalist, went off to the library today and speak to the current organizer Rob to find the details, but here is what I can figure out so far.

The Halifax polar bear swim was originally set in Black rock beach in Point pleasant park. It was an ideal location in downtown for hundreds to go for the plunge with a big enough site to run into the water and plenty of parking space. Judging by the picture shown on top - I will take a guess and say it may have began in Halifax in the mid to late 80s. The amount of chest hair, thick mustaches and lack of bathing suits correlates pretty well with time. The joy of the 80s park plunge was ruined by the increasing Halifax sewage – forcing dippers to find a place to swim that would not cause some kind of mutation. My favorite article concerning this describes how Arnie Ross in 2001 ran away from the cops straight into the bacteria filled ocean to fulfill his ritual of polar bearing. Arnie, you sir are the Madiba of the polar bears. Down with the man! After this, it was clear a new spot was to be made – which was 10 minutes of town in Herring Cove. Apparently this is the 15th dip, but I’m not sure if that includes that black beach dives or this relates strictly to the Herring cove jumps. It is also good to know it happens it other locations just outside of town in local surf spot Lawrencetown.

There you go, the History of the Polar Bear dip as I know it. Still questions need to be answered; why people flock to the swim – the idea of cleansing by cold water to start off the day – do people believe it works? What kind of people do this? Is it only for adrenaline junkies? Is the physical act of putting yourself in frigid water and warming up again helpful to your immune system, and how does it work exactly? What does the increasing interest in the jump say about us?

Thinking of it for myself, I jump because I really do believe it wakes you up, keeps me alive in the moment. It is a chance to challenge myself in a relatively safe environment, getting over what actually seems to be irrational. It is also a time to prove that I am also very human and fragile. I love community events, seeing people together, cheering, laughing – I am about to do a masters in community development, ofcourse I dig small community run events, I eat it up. It is also one of the few western traditions I can’t be pessimistic about. And yes, finally, it is the best cure for a new years eve party hangover.

more stunning cold people around the world- Here

straight out of the water 06, i wore a full santa suit, i almost drowned it was so heavy. i lost the beard in scramble to get out. that one was for you Arnie Ross. whoever you are.

(jan and i went surfing in lawrencetown…yeah its freezing)

It was surprised to find me a few places this past month, some happy, some miserable, as I come to the end of the ride that started with a very dry mouth. The story goes, that on the eve on the Kuomboka ceremony, as I made arrangements to see the Lozi king in the western province of Zambia travel down the river on a huge canoe, I checked into the clinic down the road, because of the dry mouth I had been having for the previous weeks - thinking, it was malaria. The very instant looked like this:

doctor pricks my finger and puts it on a stick. i hear a beep. the doctor says “are you diabetic?”

To sum up, I’ve spent the last 3 weeks in my home of Halifax being massaged by the Canadian social medicine system and fed well by friends and family. I was diagnosed and will forever be until a cure is discovered, type 1 diabetic. ‘Well atleast its not AIDS!” says mom. which…i am happy for..i think.

I will spend the next week at home, and will once again return to the mother land, which i have been calling home , this coming saturday night. I will be finishing in Zambia with an end of service for my volunteers who have been with me since july 07, and then I will be leading 6 students from the university of birmingham around southern Africa for 7 weeks - which leads to september…and the fall shall be another flight. i flight to end all flights - and so will end the findthesky journeys…for now.

Maropeng, south african volunteer placed in Nyimba. to the left, the classic look of most small towns on the side of the road to Malawi

When a group of norwegians, dutch, scottish, zambian and canadians get together for food and drinks in cape town following a meeting at night- rarely does anyone think its a good ideat to have 4 hours sleep and wake up to climb a mountain at 5am to watch the sunrise. Well, i dont know how i did it, maybe it startd with the guilt trip and turned into peer pressure. well either way, we made it to the top of lions head for this, and i slept all the way back to Zambia that
morning.

everyone loves fishing, and everyone loves pictures, here i am finding the fisher man and the police guard at the bridge that boarders luapula province. its almost like the guard is pulling a sly stallone pose

easter weekend meant flatmates harry, adam , and irish friends natasha and maeve set a journey to Jungle Junction, outside of Livingstone towards Botswana, - HIGHLY recommended by me - if your looking for a quiet get away, time to chill, hippos running a muck at night, and general sense of peace, go here. i woke up in my hut to see this from my bed

cant have a get away without box wine. only way to jungle junction is by dugout canoe

lake kariba, between zambia and zimbabwe

one year.

when I think back from my time here, the usual traveler thoughts prevail. 1) so much has happened 2) it has all gone so fast. 3) it continues
This month I did end of service workshop with my volunteers who have also been here for a year and were now returning home, sad. Now i find myself on the waterfront of Cape town, just after a nice stroll on the beach. Here I stay in Stellenboch, huge wino area, where I’m helping run the general orientation for SCORES new volunteers, 41 of them! I’ve been here for a few days, and so far no injuries so i am happy.

From talking to many friends at home, people have enjoyed the pictures, and I also enjoy taking them. Pictures are good, stories are better, but monthly reviews are boring. I will continue to post interesting stories and photos, but in terms of what I am exactly doing : “what does nico actually do in africa?” email me and i’ll tell you all about it.

Back in Zambia next week…with a whole new batch of volunteers, or fresh meat as i would say,

back in the mother land - Nico

ottawa fans - stanly cup

Trews -canadian rock band performs at scotia bank area in ottawa - they also performed in my college basement once, but thats another story.

climbing the baobob tree outside lake kariba

Chitenge Toga Party at my with with flatmates Harry and Adam. We decided to cross cultures with bringing the college party theme of toga party and using strictly traditional chitenge sheets, which are commonly worn as skirts by all zambian women. It was a huge success, once again trying to force north american culture in africa, check!

A above two, views from around lake kariba. the hills almost look like it is a proper maine inspired autumn, but it is definitly the middle of winter in zambia.

along the road, we notice a man standing in the middle of the road with a large object. turns out he wants to sell us a tortoise. we buy it and name it Nyama Nyama (the sea monster of lake kariba) and her, yes her, english christian name Deborah. Seh now lives in our backyard and enjoys cabbage and carrots. Apparently its also very illegal to own her, so we may have to look into a license. oh deborah, why are you playing with our hearts.

Few knew the secret plans - the plan come back a few weeks early to surprise the parents.

step one - tell my parents friends about the plan. have them invite my parents over for diner the day i come back
step two - find friends to pick me up at the airport
step three - open door at parents friends house when they come to the door for diner
step four - say SURPRISE

it worked well. lucky me i even got to do it twice as my parents came separately - my dad had the best expression - the classic “whhhhaaat!??!” .

Back home in Halifax now, soaking up as much canadian life as I can. Next week i’ll be in ottawa for debrief - then back to Zam Zam for work work. more adventures to come,

Nico

Herring cove old fishin village

herring cove, outside halifax, (10 mins from downtown)

our new korea student looks at the dingle tower from a friends backyard in halifax

chillin at the hali airport, about to jump on board, thoughts from yesturday:

10k race: a few days ago, my mom suggested i “get outside and do a 10 k race”, i dont know whos mom just says that,but mine does, so i did it. and I actually did alright considering a number of factors :

• i haven’t trained in the past 4 months
• i ran twice in the past month, once just to catch a bus
• two nights before i went to the Maxwell Plum Pub for beers, cheers and cheeseburgers
• I sprained my ankle last month

well..”alright” means to me winning my initial goals- to beat the guy infront of me who ran with a stroller (who does that?), to pass the bald guy, and finally beat the person with the fluorescent hat…which i never did beat…

Pig Roast : an old pal/extreme adventurist Jan decided to have a piggy roast. The swine was delightful. no apple in the mouth as i had originally imagined, but well worth it as a final unofficial goodbye party.

World Cup: one word: Zidane

a few from yesturdays race and roast

Ah so you all got my ridiculously big group email? good to hear, welcome to my blog. I don’t mean to bore anyone, I’ll just post what I’m up to, some funny stories, and mostly share some good pics whenever I can. So for now, try bookmarking it, and check back.

It’s another week till I run away to South Africa for 9 months (google earth Kuruman, South Africa to see where approximately i’ll be) and I’m getting the usual last thoughts of “soo..what i am really doing there?” and the answer is as unclear as I want it to be.

I just got back from grad, a few for you.